Back in Lima

I spent a few days in Huacachina, near Ica, which by bus lies 5 hours south of Lima. Ica is perhaps best known for its bodegas (wineries). Here, the famous Pisco is produced. It's a type of brandy that is made from the grapes that also make wine. Pisco comes in several different qualities: some for mixing to produce the famous Pisco Sour (the national drink containing Lime juice, sugar, ice and egg white), and others to be had straight up. I went to two separate bodegas, both of which offered free tastings and a tour through the complex, including a try at stomping on grapes. It was a lot of fun, but I'm glad I did not do both tours on the same day only because pisco is so strong...

This is Huacachina:

It's literally an oasis in the desert. There is only one road that goes around the lagoon and a walkway between the buildings and the water. The town exists only through tourism and is therefore unfortunately a tad expensive. I found a nice cheap place called "Salvatierra" though, which housed me in my own private room with bathroom for only around $5/night. The night when I arrived, I spent at the popular "Casa de Arena" (house of sand). For $7/night I had to share a room with 19 other people, and a bathroom with 20 more. That wouldn't have been so bad had they not built a bar/disco area right next to the dormitories whose windows didn't have glass and then blasted really obnoxious music until 4:30 every morning. This kept not just the sleeping people, but also the rest of the town up. Even when I stayed in Salvatierra I had to fight with myself not to close the window because of the noise. The desert heat always wins the argument in this case though.

Behind the person who took that picture of Huacachina are miles upon miles of sand dunes that are riddles with the notorious sand buggies (pronounce "boogees") that fly over huge dunes, often catching air and descending steep windy hills, eventually transporting thrill seeking tourists atop high dunes so that they can glide down on sand boards. Yes, I did it and I got to sit in the back of the buggy, which is of course the most fun! The sand boarding consisted of me lying down on the board, propped up on my forearms and shooting down the dune, trying to keep my mouth closed at all times to avoid getting too much sand between my teeth. 3 days afterwards I still found some sand in my ears, but I can't even begin to tell you how much fun it was!

I also went to the local museum in Ica, which had some great findings including creepy mummified people from the Inca empire, well preserved skulls showing intentional skull deformation, and even intricate textiles and pottery from over 200 BCE. Downtown Ica had some nice churches as far as I could tell, but the 2007 earthquake left the most impressive and important one in the state of being half-collapsed with one of the towers having fallen into the roof. I couldn't enter any of the churches unfortunately.

The following day I had plans of going to Nazca to see the lines. But I had to cut my trip through the south short due to the unexpected event of a taxi driver in Ica taking off with my backpacks which contained all my clothes for the travel, my camera, iPod, diaries, books and shoes. Nothing happened to me and the important things like my life, passport, money and computer were all spared.

I was lucky to have the help of many locals in Huacachina who offered me their help in not only finding the culprit but also in making me more comfortable. I went to the police to have a report written and looked at pictures of taxi drivers in the agency. All in vain.

The bus ride back was pretty emotional, surprisingly in a good way. In my hand I carried a small plastic bag with a bar of soap, a toothbrush, and some toothpaste. I didn't have to worry about people stealing anything and I was very happy to have my life and people that care about me--whether I've known them for years or just met them a few hours ago. Although it sucks to have your stuff stolen, I loved learning the value of non-material things.

The important thing is that I am safe and back in Lima now. I have moved into my apartment and it's awesome:

http://www.student-apartments-peru.com/index.htm

The owner is a young woman who has been extremely helpful by picking me up at the bus terminal (she actually has her own car, which is extremely rare here) and driving me to pick up clothes, towels, shampoo and a bit of food. I've mostly gotten everything back together now.

Right now I live with a French dude, a French girl (both students), one Canadian and a Colombian (both work) in Miraflores, very close to the center. It's a great apartment complex. It was sort of startling though coming from Ica, where I took a shower using a bucket of cold water, and coming here where I have hot running water and cable television.

During the second week of March I'll move to another apartment, owned by the same person in a different street. It's basically the same complex just on the other side of the main street, even closer to the main supermarket etc. Currently it is being painted, which is why I'm here for the time being.

My back-bench seat partner from the dune buggy was a Dutch man named Jan, who'd been travelling through Southamerica for 6 weeks. I found him again in Lima yesterday, sitting in a cafe in Miraflores and two of my housemates and I took him to this restaurant called el Punto Azul (Blue point) that serves almost only seafood dishes that are all to die for! The wait generally is about 30min-1hr and everybody is okay with that because they know what grandeur awaits them inside. It was truly fantastic!

Today felt like Christmas because I picked up my things that I had left in the South American Explorers Clubhouse and I could unpack some clothes that I hadn't brought on my travels. I feel a little more whole again. I also did my first load of laundry and visited a few bookstores in hopes to find The Fountainhead, which I couldn't finish before Mr. "christian" cabbie took off with it. I have a lead to a big bookstore and hopefully I can find that tomorrow.